Coco Chanel was a pioneer in women’s fashion. One of the areas where she had the greatest impact was costume jewelry. Not only did she coin the term in the 1930s, she created some of the most enduring styles of the century.
When Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel opened her Parisian store she knew that women would want to accessorize the clothes they bought from her, so she started selling accessories, including jewelry, which she and many of her clients considered the perfect finishing touch. Since her costume pieces were less expensive than real gems, it allowed women to buy more pieces and accessorize each outfit differently.
One of the key things she did was to take pieces that were meant to imitate precious jewelry and exaggerated them. She purposely called attention to the fact that they were fake. Given the fact that it was at a time when precious jewelry helped define a woman’s place in society, this was a revolutionary move. Women would often pile on many pieces (especially rows of pearls) to create an over-the-top look.
Her designs were known for making a bold statement and were favored by the well-dressed, fashionable ladies of French society. Often they would mix the costume pieces with real gems. Pieces were often big and bold, but always simple and feminine.
Popular Motifs in Chanel Jewelry:
- Crosses
- Rosary-style necklaces
- Military-themed pieces
- Flowers
Popular Materials in Chanel Jewelry:
- Poured glass
- Faux pearls (the more the better)
- Gold-tone chains
- Antiqued gold settings
Pieces can be identified in many ways. They’re usually marked ‘Chanel’ in block letters, or stamped with the interlocking ‘C’s’. This motif is also sometimes incorporated into the design. Rich colors are also a hallmark of vintage Chanel jewelry, especially the green and red color combo. On p.57 of her book Costume Jewelry: The Complete Visual Reference and Price Guide, Judith Miller states that Chanel found inspiration in everything from stained glass windows to Byzantine mosaics. She also says that “much of Chanel’s jewelry is reminiscent of the cultures of India, Persia, and Egypt.” This can certainly be seen in many of the older pieces.
Despite being considered the less-expensive alternative to precious jewelry, Chanel pieces are highly collectible and thus quite expensive. Vintage piece can be just as much, if not more, than contemporary pieces. Prices show no signs of going down, so if you happen to find a reasonably priced piece, grab it!
The Chanel name was, and will probably forever be, synonymous with glamour. Her influence was wide-ranging and is still felt today.
Join the Conversation